Kolhapuri chappals trace their origins to the 12th century in Maharashtra, particularly in the town of Kolhapur, from which they get their name. Made of locally-sourced leather, these handmade slippers are known for their durability, earthy charm, and intricate craftsmanship. Traditionally, artisans used vegetable dyes and did not rely on nails or synthetic materials-making them both eco-friendly and sturdy.

What sets these chappals apart is not just their design but the deep cultural significance they carry. Once a symbol of rural pride, these slippers have been worn by farmers, royals, and eventually, fashion-forward citizens across India.

Prada’s reinvention sparks outrage

When models strutted down the Prada runway in what seemed like a minimalistic take on Kolhapuri chappals, desi netizens were quick to point out the striking resemblance. While some appreciated the global recognition, others criticized the fashion house for not giving due credit to the traditional artisans and communities that have been crafting these for centuries. Fashion critiques like Diet Sabya and designer Anaita Shroff Adjanaia

Many argued that what Prada labelled as 'modern sandals' are already available in Indian markets at a fraction of the cost-yet without the designer tag or visibility on global runways. These Kolhapuri Chappals under 'Prada' brand cost a whopping  £1,000 (approx. Rs 1.17 Lakh). One user commented, "If you don't credit the place or culture it came from, it's not 'inspiration' anymore it's just copying."

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More about the authencity behind Kolhapuri chappals

Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted using thick, full-grain buffalo or cowhide leather. Initially, the leather is quite stiff and lacks the soft cushioning. Unlike mass-produced shoes, Kolhapuris don’t have foam insoles, fabric lining, or heel cushioning. Your feet are in direct contact with untreated or vegetable-tanned leather, which can be abrasive in the beginning. The ones made of original leather might give you a bite or blisters. But the color of the chappals keep getting darker once they start aging and absorbing your body heat.

Cultural appreciation vs. appropriation

This controversy raises important questions around cultural appropriation in the global fashion industry. While inspiration can flow across borders, the lack of acknowledgment or collaboration with original craftspeople often results in the erasure of cultural histories. With increasing global discourse around ethical fashion, many now believe luxury brands have a responsibility to credit their inspirations transparently-and support the communities involved.

The silver lining?

If there’s one positive takeaway, it’s this: Kolhapuri chappals are now in the global spotlight. Indian artisans, if empowered through collaboration and fair trade, could potentially benefit from this renewed interest. But recognition must begin with credit-something fashion houses like Prada can no longer afford to overlook. The art of making designer chappals out of leather was long ago established in Maharashtrian town, Kolhapur!

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