Mumbai, often referred to as the city of dreams, is filled with a unique kind of magic. Here, even the sewers seem to have a price tag. It is often said that the sewers are made of gold. In India, poverty is a commodity, and Mumbai is perhaps the place where it is sold at the highest price. It is no secret that the impoverished are often treated as objects for display and education, not just by foreign tourists but also by the elite domestic class residing in areas like Pedder Road and Malabar Hill. Dharavi, one of the largest slums in the world, starkly illustrates this phenomenon. During a recent visit to this slum located in the heart of Mumbai, one of the most shocking sights was the elite paying ₹15,000 for a two-hour experience of poverty.


The Hidden Streets of Dharavi

Within Dharavi, there are numerous alleys that even the average Mumbaikar hesitates to enter. These streets are part of the lower strata of Mumbai, once ruled by gangsters like Varadarajan Mudaliar, whose clientele now engages in businesses considered 'legitimate.' Real estate and everything related to land, even drugs, are part of this new economy. Experts like author and former investigative journalist S. Hussain Zaidi, who have a deep understanding of Mumbai's underbelly, assert that while the methods may have evolved, the mindset remains unchanged. However, the shadow economy is a different narrative. Here, we will delve into the trade of poverty.


Touring Dharavi: A Profitable Venture

The tour was led by a local resident named Omkar Dhamale, who, when asked about the fee for the slum tour, stated it was ₹15,000 per person. Accompanied by five foreigners, they earned ₹75,000 for a two-hour walk through the slums. This is not a new phenomenon. Previously, such tours were organized by trained guides in structured walking groups. Now, the business is being managed by the residents of Dharavi themselves, at rates comparable to corporate salaries. Foreign visitors often flock to the leather market in Dharavi, but the slum extends far beyond that main route, sprawling for several kilometers. There are alleys and corners that remain unseen, accessible only to residents. Streets less than three feet wide attract not only foreigners but also Mumbaikars who have never dared to venture here.


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